Retronics

Restoring, remodeling and creating electronic devices

Andonstar AD407 microscope add-ons, part 3: assembly

To allow the PCBs to be firmly attached to the base extender, I used M3x3.0mm threaded inserts labeled CNCKitchen, which can be bought from e.g. the Prusa web shop. The needed heat to insert the inserts into the plastic, comes from a cheap soldering iron, set to a temperature slightly above the 3D printers extruder temperature for the given filament type. A specialized soldering tip, and a drill press to hold the soldering iron, makes the insertion easier, but it’s not strictly necessary.

The base extension with M3x3.0 threaded inserts and M3x6mm brass standoffs (with 3mm threads), to which the PCBs will be mounted.

M4x6mm brass standoff for ground connection between the PSU PSB and the steel base.

PCBs mounted to the base. M3 brass standoffs to with lengths of 20 and 12 mm, to which the PSU and dimmer covers will be attached. Two 26AWG silicone wires are threaded through the concealed pipe in the base extension, and 2-pin KF2510 connectors are attached to each end. Make sure to get the polarity right!

Put the PSU lid in place, and fasten it with M3 screws.

The extender unit from Part 1 should by now be attached to the Andonstar base, with six unconnected wires, enclosed in a braided hose. Adjust the base for max. height, and cut the wires and hose to an appropriate length for reaching all the way from the top of the extender to the connectors on the dimmer board. Apply a piece of shrink hose, to prevent the braided hose from unraveling.

Add KF2510 connector pins to the wire ends. I don’t have the right crimping tool for these, but pressing them with a pair of pliers and then soldering them works just fine 🙂

Pull the wires through the hole and the strain relief in the dimmer cover.

Add KF2510 connector housings, and connect the plugs to the dimmer board. Make sure to get the polarity right, and the correct plugs to the correct outlets on the board (see markings on the PCB).

Put the lid on, and tighten the strain relief.

Optional potentiometer knobs.

Connect the USB plug. The re-built microscope stand shall now be ready for use.

The space between the lens and the mast is almost doubled, allowing inspection of larger PCBs.

The cable mess is history.

The microscope in use, inspecting a manually soldered LQFP64 chip. Not too shabby 🙂
In this case, the LED ring worked best for highlighting the solder pads, while the LED spots contributed to accentuate the text markings on the chip.

Connected to a separate monitor via HDMI.
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retronics.no's avatar

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retronics.no

One response to “Andonstar AD407 microscope add-ons, part 3: assembly”

  1. Nuckenfutz avatar
    Nuckenfutz

    This is some great stuff. Got a AD407 & AD409 Pro which could use these modifications, especially the 407. If you sold these as DIY upgrade kits, I’d purchase a few in a heartbeat.

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